Visitors 26
Modified 26-Jun-23
Created 26-Jun-23
107 photos
Saturday morning, 7:30 am 5/20/2023, Benji Weir
Soon after we arrived at our observation platform yesterday afternoon, we glimpsed elephants down by the weir – a lake behind a dam at the head of a small valley. Two elephants, greeting each other, in the water. Then one walked steadily along the wide sandy bottom of the valley just below us; up the draw past little ponds in the river course, now drying up; past a river; and on over the hillside, now following a narrow well-worn elephant trail through the lush dry grass. The other elephant lingered at the weir for a while, then set off on a different course, up the hillside opposite, stopping to munch on a mopane bush, ambling past dry termite mounds and over the hill. Mopane can be large stately trees, up to 25-30 m high, “cathedral mopane” groves. Elephants here have knocked over all but a very few, leaving a landscape of grassland dotted with small bushes 2 meters high – reminiscent of an overgrown orchard.
Check that box. Elephants seen.
After setting up camp and enjoying a nice cold lunch, we set off. Walking down to the sandy pathway, 5 m wide, at the bottom of the valley beneath our observation platform. An elephant highway. Tracks of lion, baboon, impala, porcupine as well as elephants and humans. Reaching a pond at the small draw, we turn back and walk down toward the weir.
Elephants! A procession, moving down the hill beyond the weir, single or double file. I didn’t count, but about 10 or 20? We walk slowly and quietly toward the weir. The wind is blowing from them to us; the sun is at our backs. They don’t seem to be aware of us.
As we move down: more elephants! And more!! Multiple processions, coming down the hillsides and along a small valley at the left. Moving with deliberate intent. All sizes, all ages, from big bulls and matriarchs down to small babies. Elephants from different groups greet, intertwining trunks or passing a trunk along the other’s side.
They approach the water and take a big drink – possibly their first since yesterday evening? Some walk into a shallow wash for a mud bath, tossing mud on their backs.
Some groups spend a short time here, then depart in their stately procession. Ant points out two females, very pregnant, large spherical bodies extending quite outside their legs and usual girth. He asks me to take a photo. As if: I already have dozens.
More elephants come, streaming down the hill and along the distant valley. Luckily, somehow, none from behind us. (Perhaps our scent has caused them to detour?) In any case, prudently, we move up a steep hillside to a viewpoint above the weir.
Elephants!! In the water, coming and going, greeting, washing. Moving ponderously along the water’s edge, and into the water.
Ant counts 45 at one point. He estimates we have seen 100 or more.
Those remaining resolve into two groups, a mass near the dam on our right, some scattered in the water on our left. A small elephant makes its way from the left to the right group.
Those on the right move up. Ant wonders if they might come our way. We move quickly back over the hill for prudence.
Photos, videos. It gets dark, barely enough light for photography.
Time to go. Another adventure awaits.
... After I wrote the above, we saw more elephants; baboons; birds and ungulates; flowers and plants. We drove around in the darkness, seeking to intercept the leopard Ant had seen and heard while he was preparing dinner. Without success. Two nights spent at Benji Weir, the only humans for miles.
Soon after we arrived at our observation platform yesterday afternoon, we glimpsed elephants down by the weir – a lake behind a dam at the head of a small valley. Two elephants, greeting each other, in the water. Then one walked steadily along the wide sandy bottom of the valley just below us; up the draw past little ponds in the river course, now drying up; past a river; and on over the hillside, now following a narrow well-worn elephant trail through the lush dry grass. The other elephant lingered at the weir for a while, then set off on a different course, up the hillside opposite, stopping to munch on a mopane bush, ambling past dry termite mounds and over the hill. Mopane can be large stately trees, up to 25-30 m high, “cathedral mopane” groves. Elephants here have knocked over all but a very few, leaving a landscape of grassland dotted with small bushes 2 meters high – reminiscent of an overgrown orchard.
Check that box. Elephants seen.
After setting up camp and enjoying a nice cold lunch, we set off. Walking down to the sandy pathway, 5 m wide, at the bottom of the valley beneath our observation platform. An elephant highway. Tracks of lion, baboon, impala, porcupine as well as elephants and humans. Reaching a pond at the small draw, we turn back and walk down toward the weir.
Elephants! A procession, moving down the hill beyond the weir, single or double file. I didn’t count, but about 10 or 20? We walk slowly and quietly toward the weir. The wind is blowing from them to us; the sun is at our backs. They don’t seem to be aware of us.
As we move down: more elephants! And more!! Multiple processions, coming down the hillsides and along a small valley at the left. Moving with deliberate intent. All sizes, all ages, from big bulls and matriarchs down to small babies. Elephants from different groups greet, intertwining trunks or passing a trunk along the other’s side.
They approach the water and take a big drink – possibly their first since yesterday evening? Some walk into a shallow wash for a mud bath, tossing mud on their backs.
Some groups spend a short time here, then depart in their stately procession. Ant points out two females, very pregnant, large spherical bodies extending quite outside their legs and usual girth. He asks me to take a photo. As if: I already have dozens.
More elephants come, streaming down the hill and along the distant valley. Luckily, somehow, none from behind us. (Perhaps our scent has caused them to detour?) In any case, prudently, we move up a steep hillside to a viewpoint above the weir.
Elephants!! In the water, coming and going, greeting, washing. Moving ponderously along the water’s edge, and into the water.
Ant counts 45 at one point. He estimates we have seen 100 or more.
Those remaining resolve into two groups, a mass near the dam on our right, some scattered in the water on our left. A small elephant makes its way from the left to the right group.
Those on the right move up. Ant wonders if they might come our way. We move quickly back over the hill for prudence.
Photos, videos. It gets dark, barely enough light for photography.
Time to go. Another adventure awaits.
... After I wrote the above, we saw more elephants; baboons; birds and ungulates; flowers and plants. We drove around in the darkness, seeking to intercept the leopard Ant had seen and heard while he was preparing dinner. Without success. Two nights spent at Benji Weir, the only humans for miles.
Dan Quinn