Visitors 287
Modified 21-Jan-24
Created 10-Nov-20
10 photos
Waking up to visions of snow, we head out toward Vernal Falls. What an adventure! Heavy snowfall, mist, cold, clearing, snow again. Repeat. The fallen snow on the trail ahead is broken by a single set of footprints. We walk quietly, glad to be alone, marvelling at the views. This snowfall was not on our radar. We don't know what to expect, and press on, willing to see how the day turns out and deal with conditions as we find them. And, moment by moment, the weather keeps changing.
The early hiker appears, headed back down the trail. He indulges us by photographing us together in the snow; I will post some later for the family.
Unsure of the safety of the snow-covered Mist Trail, we nevertheless hike past the trail junction, to see Vernal Falls up close. There are indeed great views of the barely-flowing falls -- and yes, the steps are covered in snow, and some look precarious. Another couple catches up with us, and takes my advice to turn back. We decide to follow them back down, planning to hike the long way around to the top of the falls. But then, looking back down the short stretch of steep trail leading up to this view, we decide it is probably safer to continue climbing, than to try to balance our way back down the slippery steps. Moving forward proves to be easy and feels safe -- the virgin snow is sticky and the steps are wide. We pass where our predecessor turned around, and walk on fresh snow, up the steps of the Mist Trail -- the first ones here today. There is no mist from Vernal Falls: the falls are a tiny ribbon, the Merced River at its late-summer minimum. The only mist is from the snowy weather, off and on.
A pair of energetic Brazilians catch up, and document our presence with more photos. We share the trail.
There are few hikers here, many fewer than we would have expected, absent snow. The few we do meet are friendly, and seem concerned for our safety -- it feels good to have others unobtrusively watching out for us.
As usual, we lose track of the trail above the falls -- the snow makes trail-following even more difficult. The flow at the Silver Apron is only a few feet wide, with fresh snow covering the rest of the gently-sloping granite. The peaceful cascade drops into a calm, slush-filled lake. Sliders and swimmers would face more danger of freezing than being swept over the falls, today -- but we demur.
The Brazilians hike with us up to find the Clark Point trail. They move out of sight as we take our time. Another couple passes us -- they wait at Clark Point, perhaps for lunch, perhaps also to make sure we are OK?
As we hike up towards Clark Point, I look in vain for a glimpse of Vernal Falls from above. The heavy mist folds us in, restricting our view to the nearby snow-covered trees and rocks. But when we stop for lunch at Clark Point, the snow pauses and the mist lifts. Half Dome appears, wrapped in mist, then standing out against a blue sky. We experience a whole range of weather -- an unpredictable sequence. Liberty Point and Nevada Falls remain in view most of the time; Half Dome looms out of the mist, then disappears again. The view towards the Valley is occasionally spectacular.
The hike back down the John Muir Trail turns into an occasional slog, switchback beyond switchback, sore knees, slippery rocky trail. I hold Helen's backpack and follow her closely, using her for balance, able to look around a bit as she picks a route.
Back in the Valley, tired and cold, we are glad we have a place for a warm shower, dinner, and a good night's sleep. But first I catch the last light on Half Dome from Stoneman Bridge -- with a dozen or more other photographers. Another special moment.
Here are a few photos from our hike up to Vernal Falls, Clark Point, and back. I also posted more photos of this hike, nearby -- as well as photos from other days and other adventures from this expedition to Yosemite Valley, November 2020, before, during, and after the first snowfall of the season. Enjoy!
